CUTTING HOLES in my rare Hemi Plymouth Superberd to FIX IT???
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Commenti: 1 931
  • illegalmachine
    illegalmachine

    Classic Mopar owner here. Few things.

  • d0gZpAw
    d0gZpAw

    I would recommend re-doing the entire electrical system, replacing that FAST box with a new Haltech Elite VMS, which is brand new technology designed to control the ignition of these old carbureted engines, along with gathering data and eliminating the old daisy-chain electronics of the past. There is a LOT of support from Haltech and their distributors in the US, so it's unlikely you will be left on hold for hours.

  • Craig Campbell
    Craig Campbell

    GOD I wish I could live in a nice quiet culdesac where randomly once a week with no warning I get to look out my window and see my neighbor honking his horn and doing donuts in the snow in a Superbird right in front of my house and climbing all over it like a madman. I hope his neighbors appreciate what they have. All that free entertainment and then everything just goes back to normal for the rest of the week. What a fun neighbor to have.

  • Alex Brown1
    Alex Brown1

    I would look into a holley sniper EFI setup with a standalone ECU. That would make it behave and run like a lot newer car and make it far easier to tune. I remember JR did that setup on his grandpas old f series and it was a night and day difference

  • The Gearhead Lounge
    The Gearhead Lounge

    As the 375th person to drop on their two cents...I would definitely dump the F.A.S.T. and go with a Holley, or even Edelbrock. As far as the fans go, have you considered dumping the aluminum plate altogether, and maybe even replacing them with pair of pusher fans? Either way, I'd dump the plate. Also, I'd check that temp that thermostat is...if it's too low, it would cause overheating issues as well.

  • James Roberts
    James Roberts

    As soon as you see wire nuts being used in a supposedly restored car harness, run...

  • devisionhun
    devisionhun

    Reach out to Haltech or Holley, they will both be happy to have their systems in a real superbird!

  • Bungey Cord
    Bungey Cord

    Heres my suggestion, make sure the lower radiator hose isnt collapsing when driving. A strong radiator pump will do that to an old hose or one without a metal internal spring.

  • 315motorhead79
    315motorhead79

    I feel your pain and frustration. Plus, Superbirds and Dodge Daytona's are my dream car.

  • David Zelkowski
    David Zelkowski

    As a retired Chrysler engineer I recall the class I had at work from the cooling system engineers. Of course the cars had engine driven fans. Important things were the radiator is sealed to the closure panel. If not the hot air can recirculate back to the front of the radiator. Also the hood should be sealed to the closure panel for the same reason. Probably the most important is the fan shroud which should fit tightly to the radiator. The fan blade needs to fit close to its opening so the air cannot spill off the blades and circulate back to the front of the blades effectively not pulling air through the radiator but recirculating it.

  • Steven Porter
    Steven Porter

    I’m with these guys. On hold for two hours? Ha! Pull that crap out! I’ve always wondered about fluid dwell time in the radiator and air flow. I’m not a fan of the car in general, but I’m on board the fix it journey. Thanks Hoovie!

  • Trevor Taylor
    Trevor Taylor

    Always keeping the dreams real Tyler, I cannot get enough of you episodes.

  • NoClassic
    NoClassic

    The radiator needs to be sealed against the radiator support and ducting panels made to span from the lower grill opening to the radiator face. It is really no surprise the car is still overheating at idle after the holes being drilled. Those only offer benefit in motion. Ideally those holes should have flaps on them that can seal when the fans create negative pressure in that space but allow flow in motion/at higher road speed. This is really not super complicated to be honest. EDIT: Here is the instructions and wiring diagrams for the Gen 1 Fast ECU -

  • Depressed Pumpkin
    Depressed Pumpkin

    I had a similar issue with an Olds 455 with a very similar cooling set up. You have no original fan shroud to direct air and a big front end, so I would suggest adding a push fan to the front of the radiator. Also, make sure your current fans are turning on correctly and their heat probes are working / in an appropriate place.

  • Andrew Lynch
    Andrew Lynch

    Honestly Tyler if your going to rewire it get a haltech, they have amazing customer service and it’s soooo easy to work with!

  • Ronnie Mullis
    Ronnie Mullis

    I know you’re having a lot of problems with this car, but I have confidence that when your finished it will be an Awsome street machine.

  • Snoopy420
    Snoopy420

    Using spacers to move the panel out an inch or 2 would gave been a MUCH BETTER solution than cutting the speed holes.

  • ARednecksLife
    ARednecksLife

    I would imagine it’s pretty embarrassing to come to a stop light and have your Plymouth Superberd, stall on you.

  • Whatareyoudoingyouidiot
    Whatareyoudoingyouidiot

    If you're going to re-wire the car (and frankly with that rat's nest you've got going on, you should) you might as well switch to a better, more modern engine management system like a Holley or Haltech unit.

  • Paul Bartlett
    Paul Bartlett

    I bet a stock fan on the engine with a factory fan shroud would cool better. Plus using a radiator additive like Water Wetter helps with cavitation (water boiling in the cylinder heads). Worth a try. Get a real temp gauge too. If that doesn’t, work, a better electric fan might. Plus the correct water pump must be used! High flow might not let the water stay in the rad long enough. My last 440 in a GTX gave me fits like this, but you learn to keep an eye on it.